Post Design
- Ground Contact: Imbedded in ground, resting on footings and then holes back filled and packed down
- Post Size: 6"X6"
- Uplift resistance: 2X4 cleats wrap bottom of all posts (see photo above)
- Beam Contact: Post tops are cleated so beams will rest on top and attach to cleats
The post design I chose was not the easiest to implement but it provided the strongest possible deck. Setting the posts was probably the most time consuming and difficult part of the deck build for me. I used the following steps for each post:
- 1. Added 2X4 cleat around post base. (6 2 1/2" screws through each side of cleat)
- 2. Put uncut post in the hole and plummed in place.
- 3. Used my water level to mark the final height of the post such that it was level to the string lines I had setup.
- 4. Cut the post. This was harder than it sounds. 6X6 posts are a pain. I needed to make 4 passes through the post with a circular saw (one on each side) and then I had to finish off the cut with a hand saw!
- 5. Added 2X6 cleat to top of post that will be used to attach beam and keep in place. This cleat needs to make contact with the post as much as it is higher than the post. It was 9.25" above the post so it also made contact with 9.25" of the post. The cleats were attached with 2 1/2" carriage bolts.
- 6. Put finished post back in hole and back filled in with soil. Every few inches of soil was packed down well with a 2X4 before adding more. I made sure the post was plumb and in perfectly in line with the string line I had setup for my post lines
- 7. Added a wood preservative to the top of the post (which was the cut end).
NOTE: I originally thought it was strange that the post rested freely on the footing and was just held in place with dirt. Once I set the first post it was very clear that this sucker was going no where! Talk about solid! The cleat on the bottom and the packed dirt in a 42" hole provides an insane amount of stability and uplift resistance!!
Some completed posts